Lhotse

8,516m

Lhotse means “South Peak” in Tibetan and the summit is on the border between Tibet and the Khumbu region of Nepal. 

 

About Us
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25th March – 2nd June 2019

70 days

$35,000   Whats Included?

About the mountain

Lhotse is the 4th highest mountain in the world at 8,516m (27,940ft), and is part of the Everest massif connected via the south col. Lhotse means “South Peak” in Tibetan and the summit is on the border between Tibet and the Khumbu region of Nepal.

The main summit of Lhotse was first climbed on May 18th 1956 by the Swiss team of Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger from the Swiss Mount Everest/Lhotse expedition.

The standard climbing route follows the same part as Everest’s South Col route up to the Yellow Band beyond camp 3.

This expedition is designed for experienced climbers who have previously climbed Everest, and due to the fact the couloir is very narrow and has rock fall danger, we only accept a maximum of 8 climbers on the route.

 

Climbing the mountain

Our Lhotse expedition will use the same logistical support/route as our Everest expedition members as the route is the same all the way up to camp 3, with a separate camp 4 being located on Lhotse itself.

The traditional Everest basecamp is a crowded place and sits on active ice which moves and melts around the tents during the course of the expedition, so Himex will camp slightly further down the valley closer to Pumori where there is more sun and the ice does not move – this makes for a much more comfortable experience and place to call home.

Due to the unstable nature of the Kumbu Icefall, Himex intends to minimise the amount of time members and Sherpas spend here, so we will spend more time on Lobuche and the surrounding peaks during acclimatisation.  

We will place an emergency tent and equipment at camp 1 at the top of the ice fall, however this camp has an inherent avalanche danger so members are encouraged not to stay here.

Our first trip into the Western Cwm will therefore be directly to camp 2 (6,400m) where we will spend two nights before continuing up to camp 3 (7,200m) on the Lhotse face. Here we spend one night acclimatising before heading down to camp 2 for another night, before returning down to basecamp.

On our way up to the top of Lhotse we will start from camp 3 on the Lhotse face and follow the normal Everest route up over the ‘Yellow Band’. When we get close to the ‘Geneva Spur’ this is where we take a sharp right hand turn and leave the Everest trail and climb up a steep slope to the Lhotse camp 4.

We will leave camp 4 in the dark and head towards the Lhotse couloir which is approximately 600m long and 50 to 60 degrees steep, and generally rather narrow, made up of mostly snow and a few sections of steep rock scrambling – the views of Everest from this couloir are outstanding. At the top we reach the summit block, which is a steep section of rock climbing that finishes on the tiny summit, from which we get unique and unparalleled views of Everest and the surrounding peaks.

The descent involves a series of abseils and arm wraps into camp 4 before following the normal fixed line traverse on the standard Everest route back into camp 3, and then the usual descent from here to basecamp. 

 

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2019 ProgrammE – 25th March – 02nd June
 
25 Mar 

Arrive Kathmandu 

1,317m

26 

Kathmandu

27 

Fly Kathmandu – Lukla – Namche 

3,440m 

28 

Namche – Khumjung 

3,780m 

29

Khumjung 

30 

Khumjung – Phortse 

3,810m 

31 

Phortse – Pheriche  

4,240m 

01 Apr 

Pheriche

02

Pheriche – Lobuche 

4,910m 

03 

Lobuche  

04

Lobuche – Everest BC  

5,267m 

05

Everest Base Camp

06 

EBC – Kalapatta – EBC 

5,555m

07 

Everest Base Camp

08 

EBC – Pumori C1 

5,750m 

09 

C1 – C2  

6,200m

10

C2 – EBC 

11  

Everest Base Camp 

12

Everest Base Camp

13 

EBC – Pumori C2

14

C2 – C3  

6,800m 

15 

C3 – Summit – C3 

7,165m 

16

Camp 3 – EBC

17

Everest Base Camp 

18

Everest Base Camp

19

EBC – Everest C2 

6,400m

20 

Camp 2

21 

C2 – Lhotse Face – C2  

6,600m

22

Camp 2 – Camp 3 

7,400m

23

Camp 3 – Camp 2

24

Camp 2 – Everest BC 

25

Everest Base Camp

26 – 30 apr

Climbing 

01 – 27 MAY  

Climbing 

28 May

Everest Base Camp

29 

EBC – Pangboche

30

Pangboche – Namche  

31

Fly Namche – Lukla – Kathmandu

01 June

Kathmandu

02

Depart Kathmandu