NEWSLETTERS - Everest Expedition 2004

Newsletter 525 May 2004

More Summit News

This morning, 24th May, Himalayan Experience had 10 people on the summit on Mt. Everest; 4 members, 1 Guide and 5 Sherpas.

The summiting members and Guide (with their current location, as of 14:30hrs BST) are:
Joanne Gambi (ABC)
Rob Gambi (ABC)
Barry Roberts (Camp 1)
Andrew Marquis(Camp 3)

with the Guide
Bill Crouse (Camp 3)
Ian Wiper has returned to Camp 1 having reached 8600m
Paul Hockey has returned to Camp 1 having reached 8500m

both climbers had to take the decision to turn back. The consequences of not taking this, critically timed, decision can be fatal. This morning a Bulgarian climber, fom another expedition, was advised to turn back by Himalayan Experience and other teams. It is estimated she was given this advice by no less than 20 people but decided to continue. Night has now fallen & she has not returned to Camp 3. Her chances of survival are very remote and experienced campaigners believe she is probably already dead. Roy Fouche, who has to leave the expedition early, has given a 20 meter ladder to Himalayan Experience. In turn, Himalayan Experience has donated the ladder to the Tibetan Mountaineering Assocation (TMA). In four, 5 meter sections, the ladder has been carried to the second step (8610 m to 6860m) and has been installed by Nepali & Tibetan sherpas. This ladder replaces the 5 meter ladder installed by a Chinese expedition in 1975, enabling easier passage over the more difficult section of the second step. The final North Col team are scheduled to climb to the Col on 28th May. At the same time, the Sherpas will take down the higher camps and everything, including all waste, will be transported to Base Camp. The expedition has scheduled return to Kathmandu for 1st June.