Reflections on Everest 2006
When our team first met in Kathmandu at the end of March, there was a spectacular partial eclipse of the sun. At the time I was asked if this was a good or bad omen, my reply was that it was good, but at the time my heart suggested that it was not to be. My inner instincts were to be true.
Everyone back at Basecamp
Everyone is down from ABC including Mario the Swiss Guide plus Dangima Sherpa who climbed with Kari Kobler has just arrived for lunch after making the first commercial traverse from the Sth Side to the Nth Side. Mario left on the 18th from the Sth Col and arrived at BC today which just shows his strength, he looked like he had just arrived from a short walk along the Valley. Mario was very very impressed with the fixed ropes that had been set by the Himex Sherpas at the end of April.
Everest Summit Success
A quick news letter just received from ABC with an update of summit success.
Those who reached the summit on 14 May.
Everest Summit Success
News dispatches are usually sent by e-mail from ABC or BC, but hot from the North Col, by telephone, we can tell you that...
Summit attempts were delayed by 24 hours as the optimum weather window arrived later than first forecast.
Well, we are ready
Today Team 1 headed out of ABC for the North Col and then higher. The plan at this stage is to summit on Saturday the 13th.
Team 2 will follow tomorrow with summit day planned for Sunday the 14th. This is both an exciting time for everyone and a nerve racking time for Russ who is stage managing the whole show, using his expertise to schedule the summit attempt around the weather.
Well we all woke up this morning pinching ourselves to ensure the results of yesterday were true, that 6 of our Sherpa team led by Phurba Tashi summited Mount Everest at 15.05 hours, 30 April!
The team is back in ABC with smiles all round after spending a night at Camp one. Tim has just set off for his night of acclimatisation with a one of the film crew. The sun is shining and everyone is very pretty pumped after getting a night at 7,000m and can notice the jump in acclimatisation. No one really enjoyed their first night at North Col as there was lots of coughs, tossing and turning but the benifits are obvious this morning.
Report - 7000 metres 24/4/06
Yesterday the climbing really started with our first climb to the North Col with all the climbers and guides making it with the exception of the Doc who was walking back up from BC and Tim who is going up on Tuesday. We had a great day to climb and had a picnic atmosphere at the Col for a couple hours in the sun. The climb up to the North Col was the first major test and everyone was really pleased how well they went - this is a great confidence boost for the next few weeks.
April 22, ABC
Over Saturday, Sunday and Monday (15th - 17th) both waves of clients, guides and film crew arrived at ABC via Interim camp, lucky it was there as the first trip up this 22 km of glacier moraine is quite grueling.
Everyone made it in good time though with just Martin opting to stay behind at BC. While the weather was good on the way up it didn't stay that way for long with the temperature dropping and snow falling. This compounded other problems with comm's meaning we are really just on line reliably now.
Himalayan Experience Base Camp
Most everyone arrived in Kathmandu on the 30th of March and assembled at the Hotel Tibet. From there everyone was introduced during an early evening get together. Then we packed our gear into barrels which were then loaded onto trucks and driven to base camp. Most everyone did a bit of sightseeing in Kathmandu on the 31st. Others went to the Thamal section and bought last minute equipment while some just relaxed. Air pollution and air borne pathogens are acute in Kathmandu, there fore you try and limit your exposure to the street scene. Many people still picked up respiratory infections and intestinal viruses while we were there and are just now fully recovered. On the night of the 31st we all enjoyed a group dinner at Kilroy's where the stories and wine flowed equally.