Newsletter 429 April 2006
The team is back in ABC with smiles all round after spending a night at Camp one. Tim has just set off for his night of acclimatisation with a one of the film crew. The sun is shining and everyone is very pretty pumped after getting a night at 7,000m and can notice the jump in acclimatisation. No one really enjoyed their first night at North Col as there was lots of coughs, tossing and turning but the benifits are obvious this morning.
The team had a great climb up to Camp 1 with hot conditions for the early starters and a cool breeze and snow for after lunch starters. Most of us noticed the slight extra weight but our extra acclimatisation certainly counteracted the weight. The best example is Mon's time of 2hrs and 6mins setting out after lunch and beating the snow. We are sure if we X-Ray the beast he would be more machine than human.
We had our turn of events yesterday which all turned out fine. Our first one happened to Mark Inglis as he was descending down from Nth Col. As he was sliding down the fixed rope a belay pulled and he gained some unwanted speed and a couple of circus sumersaults before the slack came out of the fixed line. This extra and unusual speed cracked his climbing foot along its stem. Mark radioed down to Wayne who was luckly at Crampon Point and with Bob brought up a new leg. Mean while Mark was out with the gaffa tape and gerry-rigged the leg and started a slow limp down. Wayne and Bob climbed up a few rope lengths but Mark was able to fully descend before changing legs.
Our other event was with the Sherpa team as one of the men looked like he was coming down with cerebal odeama. Russ radioed through the medical instructions and they were then able to walk him down. He is now in ABC and descending to BC later today. The Doc believes it was more a cold and tiredness from the hard work they have been doing as the fine weather allowes them to set up.