NEWSLETTERS - Everest North Side 2005

Newsletter 96 June 2005

As planned, two teams departed for their summit pushes on May 31st and June 1st from ABC and we are pleased to report the following results:

Team 1 - June 4th Summit Day

Newsletter 830 May 2005

Dear Friends,

Greetings from ABC. Contrary to some newspaper and Web reports, we are still here!!! We haven't let a little (!) bad weather, (well, OK, weeks of horrendous winds and cold!), discourage us and send us fleeing from the mountain! As an aside, also, Duncan Chessel has not been associated with our expedition for the past two weeks and will not be rejoining it, counter to what he has been reporting of late.

Newsletter 722 May 2005

ABC Journal Entry

Hello from ABC, where everyone has settled back into life at 6,400 metres. It's very different to base camp, particularly weather wise, as the Tibetan winter continues to batter us with unseasonably nasty conditions. Apparently, the Tibetan calendar for 2005 has two Aprils and no May, so spring has bypassed us completely, leaving us constantly seeking warmth.

Newsletter 614 May 2005

The waiting continues

Since the last update the majority of Himex members have remained at Everest Base Camp. Apart from a few coughs and colds everyone is in good health and remains in good spirits. Unfortunately the weather is currently not in our favour. Jet stream winds are buffeting the top of the mountain and are forecast to continue to do so for several more days. This means that our summit attempt is likely to be delayed until towards the end of May. Not surprisingly the weather is a regular topic of conversation among expedition members who are a little anxious about the wind. However we continue to have a positive attitude. We are a strong team and have the resources to sit it out until the weather improves.

Newsletter 530 April 2005

Greetings once again from Base Camp! After several more days in "hurry up and wait mode," I write to update you on the news of the past days. Everyone is doing fine and dealing in their own way with this mentally and emotionally challenging time. While we are understandably anxious to proceed back up the mountain, we all appreciate that this period of recovery from our time at ABC and waiting for the proper weather window is vital to our success later in the month, as well as expected part of the overall program.

Newsletter 423 April 2005

After a successful team push to tag the North Col over the past few days, our team is preparing to depart on April 26th for a major acclimatization period above ABC. The plan is to sleep for two nights at the North Col (camp 1) and spend a night at camp 2. On the four day above ABC we will trek above camp 2 before decending back down to ABC. Assuming we have successfully completed our acclimatization push above ABC, our team will then descend to BC to absorb the oxygen rich air of 5,200 m. In preparation for our acclimatization push above ABC, tomorrow the team members will be packing our high altitude gear - down suits, googles, mitts, and food for our ascend to the rarified air of 7,000 m. and above.

Newsletter 321 April 2005

The entire team was settled into advanced base camp by April 20, but North Col member Oliver Smallman succumbed to some form of high altitude stroke and had to be evacuated to base camp on the back of a yak. Thankfully he responded well to treatment from expedition doctor Terry O'Connor and the combination of oxygen and the lower altitude meant that he was able to fly back to London, on Friday night having made a spectacular and welcome return to full health. He is much missed by his team mates, but is still expected to raise lots of money for the endometriosis charity he has chosen to support.

Newsletter 215 April 2005

Since we have been at Base Camp the expedition members have been divided into two teams for the north side of Everest - the yellow team and the red team. This has no significance except for the fact that there are a certain number of yellow tents and a certain number of red tents here at BC. Those in the yellow tents are the yellow team and those in the red tents are the red team. Also we have two or three Mess tents so one team goes to one and one to another so neither tent is too crowded.

Newsletter 11 April 2005

This is our first newsletter for the Everest 2005 expedition. The expeditioners all met in Kathmandu and we were there for a day or two before setting off for Tibet. We left just in time as the Maoists were planning a road strike which throws any city into chaos. We had the easy part, as our itinerary schedule included a flight straight to Lhasa, Tibet. Russell (Expedition Leader and the Boss) travelled overland from Nepal to Base Camp direct which is a pretty stiff sort of gradient when it comes to acclimitisation.