Newsletter #827 September 2012
Some forward progress
It is hard to be positive on the mountain this year, but despite all the various set backs, our team at last started making forward progress. On 27th all the members left BC for C1 and half of the Sherpas went from BC to C2. Wim who is attempting the summit was already at C1 and so he went from 1 to 2 with Rita in a bid to gain more acclimatisation at C3. Unfortunately Daryl returned to BC and will not be heading for the summit.
Today members went from C1 to C2. Wim from C2 to C3 and Woody left C1 early and went through to C3 to look for the buried tents. Unfortunately we were not able to recover these, so we will need to bring more tents from C1 to C3 tomorrow. 4 x Himalayan Experience, 1 x Cosmo Trek, 1 x Altitude Junkies and 2 x Seven Summit Trek Sherpas left C2 and fixed rope to within about 150m of C4 at 7,400m. They stopped there as they ran out of rope. The second half of the Sherpas went from BC to C1 this afternoon where they will spend the night before carrying replacement tents to C3 tomorrow.
So we are part way towards reaching the summit on 30 Sept on our revised program.
In the mean while I am being looked after at BC by Lachhu Bahadur Basnet one of my longest serving cooks. He first started work for Himalayan Experience in 1994 and has been on every expedition with us since. He has been to every base camp of all the 14 x 8,000m peaks apart from Nanga Parbat. He tells me that on his first ever trek, at the age of 15, that he was sent to fill the kerosine stoves. But nobody had shown him how to do this, so he filled the stoves with water, with disastrous results. He was beaten around the legs with a stick by his sirdar at the time. I must say he learned many tricks in the kitchen since then.
Also here is Kul Bahadur Magar who is from Akibui village, near Tumlingtar in the Makalu area of Nepal. He also started with Himalayan Experience in 1994 and has proved to be a quite but reliable friend and kitchen boy over the years. He is always well recognised by his cheerful smile that shows his gold tooth.
And not to forget Phurba Gharti Bhote (Puri) who is from Daji Ghaigat village in the Tari in the east of Nepal. Puri is as strong as any of the Sherpas and has been know to carry an injured person for over an hour uphill between Samagon and BC. Again quite but always the first person up in the mornings in order to make the bed tea.